Saturday 30 October 2010

There is other things than Castles in Loire Valley !

Times go fast. And the people from Loire Valley agree with that. Long time ago this valley was one of the richest of France. Adulated by the king, they build numerous castles; it was one of the most prosperous areas of France, it was and still one of the biggest vegetable growing area in France. This combine with vine culture, it makes the area very enjoyable for is hedonist culture based on good food and good wine. François Rabelais make this philosophy famous in is time, talking about the wine of Chinon and the fine food in his books. In the middle age, wine from the Loire was even more expensive and esteemed than the wine from Bordeaux.

The area still a very gastronomic and cultural pole of activity but the wine no longer have a good reputation. Why? I can’t really explain why but have got few explanations:
1. the area is so big that it’s sometimes difficult to have wine of the same quality from a same vintage in each different part of the vineyard,
2. like all wine region in France the Philloxera destroyed everything and the grape varieties use before are no longer present,
3. the area is controlled by numerous winegrowers’ cooperatives who are not pulling the quality up,
4. Last but not least they don’t make wine to be fashionable or block buster: over extraction, barrel ageing, malolactic fermentation are not use in Loire valley.



Usually Loire wine region is divided in six different parts but I think four of them are the most interesting:
- the “vignoble Nantais” (Nantes winegrowing area) famous for is very refreshing white wine call Muscadet,
- the “Anjou” (Angers winegrowing area) famous for the sweet and not sweet white wine based on Chenin,
- the “Touraine” (Tours winegrowing area) renowned to produce the finest red wine in Loire valley based on Cabernet Franc, there is also a production of high quality white wine,
- The “centre-Loire” (Upper Loire) the cradle of the finest sauvignon in the world.

The two other are the “Orleanais” (Orleans winegrowing area) and the”vignoble d’Auvergne” (Aurvegne winegrowing area that are most of the times not include in Loire wine region). Each of this area have is specificity and is way of making wine.

The WINES

Wild Yeast 2009,
Domaine Les Grands Presbytères Nelly Marzelleau
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie

A very pale colored Muscadet, fragrance of white flower and tropical fruit emanates from this wine. The mouth is very lively on the same aromas of the nose but with a little kick at the end, a hint of minerality and a long lasting flavor. A perfect match for oysters.

L’Envolée 2008, Gerald Vallée
AOC Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil

A very deep purple color, between a beetroot juice and ink. The nose is fully open with aromas of black fruit, cedar note and something smoky. It’s intense and ripe. The palate approved the nose, blackcurrant and black berry with note of tobacco and cedar. Tannins are fully integrated then the smokiness come back to live your palate fresh and clean.

Aubaine 2008, Jonathan Pabiot
AOC Pouilly-Fumé

A deep golden color, very bright and intense. Smell of quince jam and redcurrant, then a kind of deep salinity. The palate is delicate citrus are more present with the salinity keeping alive the wine and give it a very long and mouthwatering lasting.

Clos Rougeard 1999, Frères Foucault
AOC Saumur-Champigny

It’s one of the greatest wines of Loire valley. In good year the plot selection can rival easily the best Bordeaux from the left bank. This one is the village coming from different plot across the property. It had a cherry red color with orange reflect. The nose is open (I carafe it before) on wild strawberries and black fruit with reminiscence of leather and coffee. The mouth is clean; tannins silky and it taste so good, more leathery and meaty than the nose.

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