Monday 8 November 2010

Sweet is beautiful !!

Sweet wine is not fashionable anymore. At the time of Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855, that kind of wine was very appreciate. Château Yquem the most famous of sticky wine was the only one classified as Superior First Growth (Premier Cru Supérieur) and was selling better than the red from Medoc. Before that the famous Hungarian Tokaji was very well renowned in every royal court of Europe. Louis XV offering a glass to Madame de Pompadour, said “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” (Wine of Kings, King of Wines). Sweet was considered for long time the best of the best and in every country, every area you can found a sweet version of wine. The English was fervent admirator of that kind of wine; did they not invent Port, Marsala or Madeira ?


The people making those wines are facing a big problem actually, the diminution of the consumption. Those wine are considered too heavy, in taste, in alcohol and we don’t found anymore the right consumption moment for that kind of wines. I think there is many way of consuming those wines, forget the “idées reçus” and be imaginative. Those wine are not good only on a Foie Gras; they can be a perfect match for cheese, seafood or aperitif. And don’t forget compare to Bordeaux red’s, Sauternes are still affordable !

My selection :

Jurançon 2008, Lionel Osmin & Cie
AOC Jurançon

Very pale golden color for this wine. The nose is quite closed but aromas of white flower and bitter orange emanate from it. In mouth is something smooth and light, a perfect balance between sweetness and acidity. Aromas of litchi and passion fruit fill up your palate. It’s end with a touch of orange and a fresh finish.

Château Rabaud Promis 2003
Premier Grand Cru Classé
AOC Sauternes

It’s one of the best Sauternes I tried the last few years. I tasted this wine 3 or 4 times and I always enjoyed it. The color is very intense gold. The nose is flavorful : pineapple, apricot, roasted apple, cinnamon and vanilla. Then in the palate it’s still very pleasant, very well balanced not heavy as Sauternes usually can be.

Le Muté sur Grains 2006, Domaine de La Rectorie
AOC Banyuls

A French specificity, fortified red wine from far south of France. The typical examples are Banyuls and Maury, both made from very old Grenache vine. Domaine de La Rectorie is one of the best producers and this entry level wine shows us the potential. The color is deep black purple. On the nose you can smell figs, moka, cacao, licorice and walnuts. The wine is full body with intense tannins and sweetness. Final is persistent and intense.

Forster Jesuigarten Riesling Spätlese 2009, Reichsrat Von Buhl
QBA Pfalz

For me sweet Rieslings from Germany are the best dessert wine. They are always flavorful, sweet and a big balancing acidity. This one, follow the rules, with flavor of melon, peaches and vanilla. The mouth is same with a honeyed touch. The big acidity balances the lot of residual sugar to make a wine fresh and elegant. The final is mineral and long lasting.

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