Thursday, 11 November 2010

Who said Americans don't know how to make wine ?


I was very suspicious about American wine before I tried some very good one. The one I found in France was too sweet with high alcohol content. They were most of the time over extract and without any subtlety. When you think a bit about, it’s quite normal wine over there is not controlled like in Europe. The rules and regulation appear only in the 1980 with the AVAs (American Viticultural Area). And California, the biggest wine producer state of the country began to recognize AVA only in the late 80's. Before those rules it was a total anarchy with wine labeled as American but without any grapes coming from USA. Now the best “terroirs” are recognized and grape varieties are planted in relation to the soil and climate. And since the 80s, lots of wine producer are making wine following old world method (use of French oak, not over extraction, less alcohol, pigeage, racking…).

You may say this is the result of globalization, that we make wine with the same taste in every country. No, maybe I’ve got too much faith but for me French, Italian, Spanish or American wines have their own typicality. We make progress in winemaking but the uniformity of taste is far away from us as long as independent producers continue to produce wines of quality in their own way (and with faith to). Of course you found more and more wine made in an industrial way (most of them sell in the supermarket) with constant quality and constant flavor (and price far lower than the wine you found in independent wine shop). But it is really what you want ? I think America start to understand that now and it’s why some wines are outstanding over there.

One Point Five Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Shafer Vineyards
North Coast, Napa Valley Stags Leap District

One of the best producers from Napa with is plot selection “cuvée” coming from Stags Leap District the smallest appellations in the US. The wine is deep, intense in color with black reflect. The nose is full of black fruit aromas mainly blackberry then spices are coming to finish with tobacco and cacao notes. The palate is direct with aromas of black fruit coming and a kind of smoky flavor. The tannins are supple and the finish very long.

Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Heitz Wine Cellars
North Coast, Napa Valley Oakville

Because this wine is a myth, this pure Cab from Napa is a classic. Classic it is the color is not to deep but not to pale to just like a modern Claret. The typical minty aromas jump to your nose rounded by ripe berries. In the mouth, this wine seems perfect round, intense, subtle, well balance with those aromas of black fruit and chocolate. The final is so long to.

Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel 2006, Ravenswood
North Coast, Sonoma County

For me Ravenswood made the best US Zinfandel, always perfectly ripe not to deep not to light. Here Zinf is well treated. With a nice purple color and bright reflect, this wine release jammy red fruit and cinnamon flavor. The palate develop touches of spice and vanilla, it’s balanced and well structured never heavy. And it lives an amazing long finish with hint of berries.
The cheapest version the Vintner Blend is also very good.

Le Cigare Volant 2004, Bonny Doon Vineyard
Central Coast, Santa Cruz Mountains

From the pioneer to plant Rhone Varieties in California, this red with a funny label reflect the diversity of American wine. Quite light in color with rubies and orange reflect, the wine on the nose is typically syrah with pepper and earthy fragrance. Medium bodied and fruit driven in the palate, it reveals is capacity to be easy drink in any occasion.


Columbia Valley Semillon 2007, L’Ecole N°41
Washington State, Columbia Valley

Washington State is the second biggest wine producer state after California. The climate there is cooler and permits to grow grape varieties such as Riesling or pinot noir. But I choose a non famous grape varieties : Semillon, this grape is originated from Bordeaux where it made great sweet wine such as Sauternes and Barsac. L’Ecole 41 makes a very aromatic dry white from this grape. The color is a rich pale gold, the nose present multiple floral aromas and a hint of citrus. The creamy textured of the wine fill your palate then exotic fruit appear to finish with a fresh and delicate touch.

Marsanne Santa Ynez Valley 2008, Qupé
Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Another grape not very well knows, Marsanne is from Rhône Valley where it excels in the white Hermitage appellation. In California it found a place where it can be ripe with balance. The wines from Qupé are a perfect example how this grape can produce good quality wine. The wine have a pale straw color with green reflect, the nose reveal subtle flavor of pears and orange. The palate is from a same consistency with a crispy finish.

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