A Happy New Wine Year and that all you wishes come truth !!

What a best occasion than New Year evening to drink wine. In France tradition it’s to drink Champagne and pop up the cork at midnight exactly. But New Year is time to do some assessment and in particular about wine. I’ve tasted a mountain of wine this year, I don’t remember everything.

But the ones that still in my mind for sure they are good. And my biggest wish should be to drink it for this night.

New Year is the occasion to give award, you see on internet every blogger give award to other one but why not give award to the wine they taste. Some of them do and I’m glad of that. After all wine is the star of our work. It’s why we start writing, why we want to share idea or why we start a blog.

The award of the best pinot I tasted this year comes to a Vosne Romanée 2001 from Jean Pierre Mugneret. Not a very deep wine but just something simple well made not over price and very good. A typical pinot with cherry and leather taste.

The award of the best sparkling comes to Triple Zero of Jacky Blot, just because is a natural wine all fermentation and all taste come from the grapes. It’s pure with fine bubble.

The award of best Bordeaux is for a Cos d’Estournel 2007. I know it’s quite surprising because 2007 is renowned as a bad year. But from a good Château such as Cos it doesn’t matter. It’s just deep, intense, flavorful and well made as usual.

The Best White I tried this year and the award of best white comes to Domaine de Bongran Viré Clessé 2004. Just because this wine looks like a white Grand Cru from north burgundy, with is buttery and flowery flavor an example for all wine from Maconnais.

The award of the best sweet wine is for Château Guiraud 2002. 2010 for me was the occasion to taste Yquem and all the great from sauternes but my best souvenir comes from this Château not very famous but who’s doing a great job for sure. The wine is full of exotic fruit and marmalade but with a freshness that you don’t find easily in sauternes.

The award of the best foreign wine : I’m sorry but I always come back to my classic. It’s a Barolo Bricco delle Viole from G.D Vajra in 2006, it was quite young but with time I’m sure it will come a beast.

What are you going to drink for Christmas ?

A big question who needs a big answer. Christmas is always synonymous of big meal with all the family, is always a very good moment to share time with the people you like. Sometimes those kinds of meals can be boring and to long but I think if you have good wines at your side the time go faster.

It’s an exceptional occasion as well so it’s the perfect moment to take out of the cellar very good bottles of wines. And the better way to sublime your food is a perfect match wine.

I try to found some wine to match the food we use to eat for Christmas. Here are my results, it’s not perfect but sure that can give you some idea.

Oyster = Muscadet Amphibolite Nature 2009 Jo Landron

This muscadet for me is the purest expression of the appellation, with is light yellow color, is nose full of citrus and chalk aromas and iodized palate finish that match perfectly some oyster (from Marennes Oléron of course).

Caviar = Champagne Agrapart Minéral 2004 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

Of course I don’t eat very often caviar. But the few times I had the chance to try, I found that Champagne goes very well with caviar. For a noble product what can be better than a noble wine. Agrapart is a small producer making Champagne only from Chardonnay grape, this “cuvée” come from a special plot with a high density of chalk in the soil. It’s give to the wine a big minerality similar to the wine of Chablis. Very floral and buttery on the nose, it reveals on the palate an unique complexity.

Foie Gras = Domaine de Souch Jurançon Moelleux 2006 or an old Vintage of Cahors from Château du Cèdre

Foie Gras is a food specialty of South West of France and when you try wine from this area it looks like they are made to go with this dish. I choose a Jurançon, a sticky wine with aromas of Kumquat and candied orange. Those wine are usually lighter than Sauternes because they are balance by a high acidity level. If you don’t like sweet wine try a red from Cahors, Le Cèdre is maybe the best producer in the appellation when they are young wine can be austere and strong but with time they rounded and develop aromas of cacao and coffee.

Lobster and Seafood = Chablis 1er cru Bernard Defaix

I try this wine not long time ago and I was agreeably surprised. As usual in Chablis acidity is present but not dominant. The wine is profound, complex and I can imagine how well it goes with lobster or Dublin bay prawns.



White Poultry = Meursault (Village or 1er Cru) Pierre Morey

Poultry need creaminess and buttery flavor that only a Meursault can give you. Pierre Morey is one of the best producers in this village of Burgundy. The wines from from his own vine are in biodynamic culture and reflect perfectly the “terroir” of this famous burgundy appellation.

Red Meat = Old Vintage of Château La Tour de By (a 1996 for example) or Gevrey-Chambertin from J-L Trapet (Ostrea or Village)

What can be better for Christmas than a roast Beef filet, just serve on itself with some vegetable and cooking juice. Put on the side a bottle of this renown Châteaux of Medoc and you’re in heaven. Perfectly balanced with tannins rounded by times, La Tour de By can go well to with Lamb and Veal. For the Gevrey, it’s something different the meaty flavor of the wine sublimes the dish.


Dessert = Château de Fesles Bonnezeaux 2005 and with Chocolate a 10 or 20 years old Tawny (Fonseca or Niepoort) or Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel 2007 from Domaine du Trapadis

Sweet calls sweet. Château de Fesles consider as the Yquem of Loire is made 100% from Chenin with aromas of exotic fruit and marmalade. This wine will be a dessert on itself. If you have Chocolate to finish try something different like a sweet Rasteau from old wine of Grenache with jammy red fruit flavor and cacao finish. An old tawny can match it to.

Cheese = Vintage Port, a Kanonkop Pinotage or an Amarone della Valpolicella

Cheese is always difficult to pair with something. It’s strong, powerful and lactose doesn’t go well with wine. But if you choose a very strong wine like Pinotage from South Africa or the Amarone made from partially dried grape it can go well. Those wines high in tannins and very fruity can give a kick to your cheese board. If you don’t think so try the usual Vintage Port It’s always a success.

And to finish I wish you a Merry Christmas and a “Bon Appétit”

When Exception rhyme with Perfection…

Exception it’s something very concrete but what about perfection ? It’s something very abstract, after all perfection depends on your taste. After all the wine have been tasting, how can I describe perfection ? I think it’s something that should be simple, something not something overrated. It should be representative of the appellation without any make up or ads component.

Perfection is very difficult to found and as I say before depend on your taste. Perfection in wine is something rare but doesn’t mean to be expensive. Something rare is something exceptional. So do you have very often the occasion to taste something exceptional ? I don’t think so and me neither but wine tasting are made for that. And all the wine I will describe after are coming from that kind of tasting.

Arbois Vin Jaune 2003, Jacques Puffeney

What can be more exceptional than a Vin Jaune, everything is unique in this wine from the grape variety Savagnin a parent to Traminer, to the minimum age of 6 year in oak barrel and the film of yeast call “voile” that protect the wine from oxidation. Jacques Puffeney is one of the masters of that kind of wines and in good vintage like 2003 his wines can be like perfection. With the typical golden color of the “jaune” to the perfect nuts and spice fragrance this wine is a treasure. The nose is powerful and on the palate is an explosion of flavor balanced with the typical acidity of Vin Jaune.

Roussette de Savoie Marestel 2006, Domaine Dupasquier

This cru is one of the smallest of Savoie, not very famous or renowned but when you choose one of the best producers like Domaine Dupasquier you get an amazing wine. Exceptional because of the grape use Altesse, a one use only in Savoie to do Roussette de Savoie. This wine has a nice yellow straw color. The nose is difficult to describe because very unusual but it’s between honey and exotic fruit like mango or pineapple. On the mouth something like apricot or yellow peach reach your palate. The finish reveals a very nice acidity that equilibrates everything.

Mauzac Nature NV, Domaine Plageoles

This wine is the perfect example that something simple can be perfect. Made 100% from the grape Mauzac, this sparkling wine get his bubbles by a complete natural process. The sugar contains by the grape permit this exception in sparkling wine making. The result is a lightly bubble white wine with aromas of green apple and quince. The palate is delicate very well balance and light, a perfect wine for aperitif.

Alsace Pinot Noir “V” 2005, René Muré

This wine is an exception because is the only Pinot Noir plant in a Grand Cru (Vorbourg) area of Alsace. When is colleague prefer plant noble white varieties like Riesling, Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer, René Muré choose to plant the king of Burgundy. And his gamble was successful; this wine is far away from the typical light red pinot noir you use to meet in Alsace. Concentrated, dark, rich, powerful the wine seems coming from Burgundy and more specifically from Côte de Nuits. For me it’s far away the best red wine from Alsace and a perfect example that this region can produce good red to.

It's Beaujolais Day today !

Some say it's just marketing, other speak about fashion. I say it's just a very old tradition. Wine since it’s been invented was consumed young. Why ? Because wine before was very difficult to preserve and the consumption was higher than today so to have cheap wine you had to buy it just when it was release. (The principle of “primeur” in Bordeaux is based on the same rules). Everything changes with the progress in wine making but tradition is tradition. And the wines of Beaujolais are the one that need to be drunk very young.

Now Beaujolais Nouveau is a big event in France but also in the World, nearly the half of the production is sold outside France. This easy going wine with is strong flavor of fresh red fruit (some says Banana) was few years ago not so fashionable in is country. Lot of producers at this time was doing very bad product with artificial yeast and lot of sulfite. This was enough to give a bad reputation to Beaujolais Nouveau.

Since few years appear a new way of making those kinds of wines. With the organic, biodynamic or even natural movement growing in the Wine Industry, numerous producers make significant progress in making new wine of good quality.

The two Beaujolais Nouveau I choose are from the Domaine Joubert, both are made “à l’ancienne” it’s mean with indigenous yeast and no sulfites.

AOC Beaujolais-Village Nouveau 2010
With is pale purple dress, this wine release on the nose aromas of fruit cake and strawberry jelly, a hint of old roses to. The palate is clean and fresh, is directly driven by flamed bananas. It’s short but perfect for aperitif.




Foudre N°3 AOC Beaujolais-Village Nouveau 2010
This wine spend fifteen day in foudre (a kind of big barrel). The color is not deeper than the one before. The nose is very discrete with aromas of cherry and plum much more elegant. On the mouth, the wine is deeper in structure much more like a “cru” of Beaujolais. Aromas of red fruit fill your palate and a kind of smooth tannin gives you a kick at the end.

Wines shouldn’t be cheap !

It’s true our buying power is not the same as before. We are crossing a big credit crunch period. Millions of people don’t have job and the money that go with it. We going to work two years more without security to get a retreat pension (just for French reader). But it is a reason to destroy wine culture (in France).

Every day in my job, I’m confront to people who ask for wine under five Euros but do you know how much It cost to produce a bottle of wine. Wine it’s not Coca-Cola, it’s not an artificial product made with artificial component that can be produce in astronomical quantity. Wine is a result of one year of labor, is the result of a complex process very difficult to master.

For France, I think wine still one of the only agricultural product make in an artisanal way. It’s one of the only product actually on the market made hundred percent (or nearly) in France by French people. Think about what you’re wearing, eating or even driving. Are they made in France in an artisanal way ? I’m not sure.

Don’t forget inflation and crisis is touching wine producers to. There is different way to protect this French cultural heritage : stop buying bulk (cheap) wine in the supermarket, look at the label and the capsules for the “recoltant” mention (preferred to “negociant”), buy wine at list at ten or more Euros. Wine have cost but bottle, label, corked, capsules have one to. And you can be sure that when you buy a wine under five Euros (in a wine shop) those costs are not cover (don’t forget transport cost and seller margin).

Don’t deform my speech, I’m not fighting for wine to become a Luxury product but wines don’t have to be cheap if you want a product of good quality and with integrity. Some are approving this with excess (I’m thinking about Bordeaux First Growth) but they are the worst example you can see. There is an abyss between ten Euros and the exorbitant price of a Bordeaux First Growth. Just put a bit more money in your basic daily wine and you will found more pleasure (drinking it) and make people happier.

PS : You can also add an environmental touch to your buying act preferring organic or biodynamic wine.

Who said Americans don't know how to make wine ?

I was very suspicious about American wine before I tried some very good one. The one I found in France was too sweet with high alcohol content. They were most of the time over extract and without any subtlety. When you think a bit about, it’s quite normal wine over there is not controlled like in Europe. The rules and regulation appear only in the 1980 with the AVAs (American Viticultural Area). And California, the biggest wine producer state of the country began to recognize AVA only in the late 80's. Before those rules it was a total anarchy with wine labeled as American but without any grapes coming from USA. Now the best “terroirs” are recognized and grape varieties are planted in relation to the soil and climate. And since the 80s, lots of wine producer are making wine following old world method (use of French oak, not over extraction, less alcohol, pigeage, racking…).

You may say this is the result of globalization, that we make wine with the same taste in every country. No, maybe I’ve got too much faith but for me French, Italian, Spanish or American wines have their own typicality. We make progress in winemaking but the uniformity of taste is far away from us as long as independent producers continue to produce wines of quality in their own way (and with faith to). Of course you found more and more wine made in an industrial way (most of them sell in the supermarket) with constant quality and constant flavor (and price far lower than the wine you found in independent wine shop). But it is really what you want ? I think America start to understand that now and it’s why some wines are outstanding over there.

One Point Five Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Shafer Vineyards
North Coast, Napa Valley Stags Leap District
One of the best producers from Napa with is plot selection “cuvée” coming from Stags Leap District the smallest appellations in the US. The wine is deep, intense in color with black reflect. The nose is full of black fruit aromas mainly blackberry then spices are coming to finish with tobacco and cacao notes. The palate is direct with aromas of black fruit coming and a kind of smoky flavor. The tannins are supple and the finish very long.

Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Heitz Wine Cellars
North Coast, Napa Valley Oakville
Because this wine is a myth, this pure Cab from Napa is a classic. Classic it is the color is not to deep but not to pale to just like a modern Claret. The typical minty aromas jump to your nose rounded by ripe berries. In the mouth, this wine seems perfect round, intense, subtle, well balance with those aromas of black fruit and chocolate. The final is so long to.

Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel 2006, Ravenswood
North Coast, Sonoma County
For me Ravenswood made the best US Zinfandel, always perfectly ripe not to deep not to light. Here Zinf is well treated. With a nice purple color and bright reflect, this wine release jammy red fruit and cinnamon flavor. The palate develop touches of spice and vanilla, it’s balanced and well structured never heavy. And it lives an amazing long finish with hint of berries.
The cheapest version the Vintner Blend is also very good.

Le Cigare Volant 2004, Bonny Doon Vineyard
Central Coast, Santa Cruz Mountains
From the pioneer to plant Rhone Varieties in California, this red with a funny label reflect the diversity of American wine. Quite light in color with rubies and orange reflect, the wine on the nose is typically syrah with pepper and earthy fragrance. Medium bodied and fruit driven in the palate, it reveals is capacity to be easy drink in any occasion.


Columbia Valley Semillon 2007, L’Ecole N°41
Washington State, Columbia Valley
Washington State is the second biggest wine producer state after California. The climate there is cooler and permits to grow grape varieties such as Riesling or pinot noir. But I choose a non famous grape varieties : Semillon, this grape is originated from Bordeaux where it made great sweet wine such as Sauternes and Barsac. L’Ecole 41 makes a very aromatic dry white from this grape. The color is a rich pale gold, the nose present multiple floral aromas and a hint of citrus. The creamy textured of the wine fill your palate then exotic fruit appear to finish with a fresh and delicate touch.

Marsanne Santa Ynez Valley 2008, Qupé
Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Another grape not very well knows, Marsanne is from Rhône Valley where it excels in the white Hermitage appellation. In California it found a place where it can be ripe with balance. The wines from Qupé are a perfect example how this grape can produce good quality wine. The wine have a pale straw color with green reflect, the nose reveal subtle flavor of pears and orange. The palate is from a same consistency with a crispy finish.

Sweet is beautiful !!

Sweet wine is not fashionable anymore. At the time of Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855, that kind of wine was very appreciate. Château Yquem the most famous of sticky wine was the only one classified as Superior First Growth (Premier Cru Supérieur) and was selling better than the red from Medoc. Before that the famous Hungarian Tokaji was very well renowned in every royal court of Europe. Louis XV offering a glass to Madame de Pompadour, said “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” (Wine of Kings, King of Wines). Sweet was considered for long time the best of the best and in every country, every area you can found a sweet version of wine. The English was fervent admirator of that kind of wine; did they not invent Port, Marsala or Madeira ?


The people making those wines are facing a big problem actually, the diminution of the consumption. Those wine are considered too heavy, in taste, in alcohol and we don’t found anymore the right consumption moment for that kind of wines. I think there is many way of consuming those wines, forget the “idées reçus” and be imaginative. Those wine are not good only on a Foie Gras; they can be a perfect match for cheese, seafood or aperitif. And don’t forget compare to Bordeaux red’s, Sauternes are still affordable !

My selection :

Jurançon 2008, Lionel Osmin & Cie
AOC Jurançon
Very pale golden color for this wine. The nose is quite closed but aromas of white flower and bitter orange emanate from it. In mouth is something smooth and light, a perfect balance between sweetness and acidity. Aromas of litchi and passion fruit fill up your palate. It’s end with a touch of orange and a fresh finish.

Château Rabaud Promis 2003
Premier Grand Cru Classé
AOC Sauternes
It’s one of the best Sauternes I tried the last few years. I tasted this wine 3 or 4 times and I always enjoyed it. The color is very intense gold. The nose is flavorful : pineapple, apricot, roasted apple, cinnamon and vanilla. Then in the palate it’s still very pleasant, very well balanced not heavy as Sauternes usually can be.

Le Muté sur Grains 2006, Domaine de La Rectorie
AOC Banyuls
A French specificity, fortified red wine from far south of France. The typical examples are Banyuls and Maury, both made from very old Grenache vine. Domaine de La Rectorie is one of the best producers and this entry level wine shows us the potential. The color is deep black purple. On the nose you can smell figs, moka, cacao, licorice and walnuts. The wine is full body with intense tannins and sweetness. Final is persistent and intense.

Forster Jesuigarten Riesling Spätlese 2009, Reichsrat Von Buhl
QBA Pfalz
For me sweet Rieslings from Germany are the best dessert wine. They are always flavorful, sweet and a big balancing acidity. This one, follow the rules, with flavor of melon, peaches and vanilla. The mouth is same with a honeyed touch. The big acidity balances the lot of residual sugar to make a wine fresh and elegant. The final is mineral and long lasting.

There is other things than Castles in Loire Valley !

Times go fast. And the people from Loire Valley agree with that. Long time ago this valley was one of the richest of France. Adulated by the king, they build numerous castles; it was one of the most prosperous areas of France, it was and still one of the biggest vegetable growing area in France. This combine with vine culture, it makes the area very enjoyable for is hedonist culture based on good food and good wine. François Rabelais make this philosophy famous in is time, talking about the wine of Chinon and the fine food in his books. In the middle age, wine from the Loire was even more expensive and esteemed than the wine from Bordeaux.

The area still a very gastronomic and cultural pole of activity but the wine no longer have a good reputation. Why? I can’t really explain why but have got few explanations:
1. the area is so big that it’s sometimes difficult to have wine of the same quality from a same vintage in each different part of the vineyard,
2. like all wine region in France the Philloxera destroyed everything and the grape varieties use before are no longer present,
3. the area is controlled by numerous winegrowers’ cooperatives who are not pulling the quality up,
4. Last but not least they don’t make wine to be fashionable or block buster: over extraction, barrel ageing, malolactic fermentation are not use in Loire valley.



Usually Loire wine region is divided in six different parts but I think four of them are the most interesting:
- the “vignoble Nantais” (Nantes winegrowing area) famous for is very refreshing white wine call Muscadet,
- the “Anjou” (Angers winegrowing area) famous for the sweet and not sweet white wine based on Chenin,
- the “Touraine” (Tours winegrowing area) renowned to produce the finest red wine in Loire valley based on Cabernet Franc, there is also a production of high quality white wine,
- The “centre-Loire” (Upper Loire) the cradle of the finest sauvignon in the world.

The two other are the “Orleanais” (Orleans winegrowing area) and the”vignoble d’Auvergne” (Aurvegne winegrowing area that are most of the times not include in Loire wine region). Each of this area have is specificity and is way of making wine.

The WINES

Wild Yeast 2009,
Domaine Les Grands Presbytères Nelly Marzelleau
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie
A very pale colored Muscadet, fragrance of white flower and tropical fruit emanates from this wine. The mouth is very lively on the same aromas of the nose but with a little kick at the end, a hint of minerality and a long lasting flavor. A perfect match for oysters.

L’Envolée 2008, Gerald Vallée
AOC Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil
A very deep purple color, between a beetroot juice and ink. The nose is fully open with aromas of black fruit, cedar note and something smoky. It’s intense and ripe. The palate approved the nose, blackcurrant and black berry with note of tobacco and cedar. Tannins are fully integrated then the smokiness come back to live your palate fresh and clean.

Aubaine 2008, Jonathan Pabiot
AOC Pouilly-Fumé
A deep golden color, very bright and intense. Smell of quince jam and redcurrant, then a kind of deep salinity. The palate is delicate citrus are more present with the salinity keeping alive the wine and give it a very long and mouthwatering lasting.

Clos Rougeard 1999, Frères Foucault
AOC Saumur-Champigny
It’s one of the greatest wines of Loire valley. In good year the plot selection can rival easily the best Bordeaux from the left bank. This one is the village coming from different plot across the property. It had a cherry red color with orange reflect. The nose is open (I carafe it before) on wild strawberries and black fruit with reminiscence of leather and coffee. The mouth is clean; tannins silky and it taste so good, more leathery and meaty than the nose.

Languedoc Revival

Languedoc-Roussilon is one of the biggest wine production areas in the world. Long time under estimated because of is high yields and mass production of bad quality table wine. Thanks to the Philloxera, the vineyard has been restructured with new grape varieties and better plantation. It’s now a vineyard promised to a great future. Lot of good producer from other region, mainly Bordeaux and Burgundy, buy or are looking to buy a vineyard in this area. But don’t forget the local producers who are looking to do better wine with the new technical issues. They take care of the notion of “terroir” to and they start to adapt the grape varieties in relation with. Since the last 10 years some stars have been showing up: Clos des Fées, Domaine Gauby, Mas Daumas Gassac… But right now a new generation is coming up: Domaine des Foulards Rouges, Domaine d'Antugnac, Domaine Les Eminades, Domaine de L’Hortus…

Bergerie de L’Hortus 2008, Domaine de L’Hortus
AOC Côteaux du Langudoc Pic Saint Loup
This wine based on Mourvèdre have a very nice deep purple color with big aromas of blackcurrant and mulberry in the nose, something refreshing to maybe a hint of eucalyptus and clove. On the palate same aromas of black fruit are coming out. The wine is smooth, sweet and intense. The tannins are fully incorporated and the final is something vegetal.

La Madura Classic 2006, Domaine La Madura
AOC Saint Chinian
The very deep and trouble color of this wine remember me iodized water (“eau iodée”). The nose is close but the dominant aromas are spices: pepper, coriander and cumin. The mouth is round and generous, freshness and tannins are both present but with balance and subtlety. Pepper aromas are persistent and the final is quite short but long enough to give you pleasure.

Honour to Burgundy

One of my friend uses to say: “The only substitute to Viagra is Burgundy Wines”. With time I started to understand him. It’s real than no other wine give so much pleasure. Burgundy is synonymous of purity, “terroir” reflect and velvety texture. No other wine can be so pure: 100% Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. With only one grape variety you cannot cheat, you have to do the best you can and harvest the best grape you can to have a good wine. The rest is all about soil, sun exposure; it’s why you can found so much diversity in Burgundy from north to south. I never try wines from the DRC (Domaine de la Romanée Conti) but for me you don’t have to put that price (start at 1000€ and can reach infinite) in a wine to have pleasure and burgundy is full of good wine well price. You just have to found it or get help from your wine retailer.

My selection:

White

AOC Chablis Premier Cru "Vaillons" 2007
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
Nice Chablis with a golden pale color, the nose is very mineral with chalk aromas then the fruits are coming: green apple and pear. The mouth is delicate and complex, still this mineral backbone with salinity and nice acidity at the end. A pure example of Chablis.

AOC Meursault Premier Cru "Les Tillets" 2007
Domaine Javillier
Bright deep gold color with aromas of apricot and yellow peach, a hint of white flower. The mouth is deep but very elegant with the fruit coming back. It’s round and buttery. Final is very mineral and salty. Not a typical example of Meursault but something between Meursault and Puligny.

AOC Pouilly-Fuissé "Le Clos" 2006
Château Fuissé
A bright yellow color, the nose is full of yellow fruit and spice (cinnamon, vanilla). There is something like a “Beurre Noisette” on the mouth; it’s fatty but not heavy. It’s long lasting, elegant and a big minerality is present at the end.


Red

AOC Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2001
Jean Pierre Mugneret
Very pale Ruby color with tile reflects. The smell is typical Pinot Noir intense black cherry rounded by spice hints. For the palate is all about elegance it’s rather smooth than heavy. Aromas of strawberry are very present and the wine seems so fresh. Very well made.

AOC Beaune Premier Cru “Champs-Pimont” 2006
Domaine Jacques Prieur
A light ruby color for this wine. Pepper and cumin fragrance emanate from this beverage and big flavor of Black cherries. The mouth is deep, intense. The spices are present like on the nose with something smoky also. Final is very persistent and it let your palate clean.

AOC Mercurey 2005
Château de Chamirey
Dark red color and nice purple reflect. Aromas of strawberry and raspberries are coming from the wine. Not very complex on the mouth but fresh and very easy to drink, the wine is red fruit driven and very well balance.

¡Viva España!

Spain won the world cup this year. Ok fine, fine we already won it to. So after their football it’s time to look after something very nice that they do: WINE. Spain is one of the top world producers of wine together with Italy and France. Wine is part of the culture like most Mediterranean country but in Spain it’s something different: first because they make cocktail with it (Sangria, Tinto de Verano…) and then because it's come with every meal (nearly !!). Wine in Spain is synonymous of diversity, they grow vine in nearly every area from the Oceanic Weather of Galicia to the deserted one of Andalucía. This difference of weather and soil make so many different wines and add to that the way they made it. Of course you all know the famous Rioja but there is so many more wine in Spain that worst to be tries.

Collecion 125 Blanco 2006, Bodegas Chivite
DO Navarra
This 100% Chardonnay from Navarra, an appellation just on the side of rioja, is made like a white Burgundy. And we have to say, it’s very well made a nice bright gold color. On the nose it’s fully buttery with nice flavor of pineapple, cinnamon and saffron. The palate is very clean quite smoky, long after taste and the spice come back at the end.

Itsasmendi No 7 2007, Bodegas Itsas Mendi
DO Biskaiako Tsakolina
This wine is made in “Pais Basco” (Basque Country) in north of Spain near Bilbao. Here they made a dry white from a grape call Hondarribi Zuri (I admit it’s difficult to pronounce but it’s difficult to write it to). This wine have a very pale yellow color, the nose is full of white flower aromas and spice. On the mouth it seems a very refreshing white wine with clean acidity and long lasting aromas of white fruit and flower.

El Tresillo 1874 NV, Emilio Hidalgo
DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
When we talk about Spanish white you have to talk about Xérès. For the “aficionados” of oxidized wine this is for you. This one is an Amontillado, its mean is been first aged under “flor” then exposed to oxygen. Its make wine of mahogany color, with fragrant aromas of dry fruit and almond. On the palate you feel directly the nervousness of the vine. A big acidity and aromas of nuts and cook butter invade your mouth.

Clos Mogador 2005, Cellers Clos Mogador
DOCa Priorato
It’s maybe one of the most French of Spanish wine but it still have is typicity. A very well extracted wine from mostly Grenache. The color is deep, intense, inky we must say. On the nose a diversity of flavor are present from blackcurrant to tobacco and spice. It’s a full body wine, very present in the palate tannins are big but flavor are round by oak. Smokiness, licorice and leather are the final notes.

Cabrida 2006, Celler de Capçanes
DO Montsant
For me some of the best Grenache are made in Spain. And this wine is part of it, from 100% “Garnacha” (That’s how they call this grape in Spain), it developed typical aromas of mint, eucalyptus and red fruit. The color is a beautiful dark ruby. And the palate is smooth with spice and mint flavor. Tannins are present but not stifling. Final is long and intense.

Hécula 2005, Bodegas Castaño
DO Yecla
Another appellation who merits to being knows. This wine is from Monastrell a grape call Mourvèdre in France. With a deep red color and violet reflect, it’s develop aromas of jammy red berries with a hint of spice. Licorice and blackberry are the driving fragrance on the mouth. Tannins are rounded and silky. The wine is long lasting to.

Greener is better ?

Why should we drink organic wine? That's a good question.

This week lot of media talks about that, all start with a TV reportage from a Swiss TV channel and then different newspaper start to talk about chemical in the wine.

For me organic and even natural wines are important and they’re sometimes better than a wine made with chemical from the same appellation. But don’t go to the extreme, I try wine label as “natural” who doesn’t taste like wine. I’ve seen many wines without sulfite going back in fermentation. Sometimes when you want to make to natural it doesn’t look natural. It’s good for our future, for our health to make and drink wine made with less chemical but I think the first goal a winemaker have to think about It’s to give pleasure to the consumer. And when I drink a fizzy wine that is not supposed to be fizzy or a wine with a “brett” smell and taste, I don’t have any pleasure.

The wine I present today are made in organic way and sometimes Biodynamic but they don’t go to the extreme, that’s why I like them.

Monthelie 2006, Pierre Morey

He’s working in Biodynamic culture since 1998? And you can feel in the wine it gives something better. Burgundy vineyard is so diverse that it needs that kind of attention to be really reflected in the wine. In this one, the nose is pure fragrance of pinot noir, black cherry, leather and a bit of spice. The palate is smooth, very delicate and elegant. Tannins are present but not too much, just here to give a kick. The ending is fresh and got good lasting.

Rasteau Tradition 2006, Domaine du Trapadis

Nothing is writing on the label, no AB logo, no Biodynamic logo but Helen Durand the producer is working on both type of culture. He still working the soil with is soil and spend lot of time in the vineyard. The wine is simply beautiful, with a big proportion of Grenache it develop aromas of red fruit jam (raspberry, bilberry). The taste is delicate you find the same aromas as the nose; tannins are elegant and round but persistent. A very pleasant and “gourmand” wine.

Château La Grolet Tradition 2008, Côtes de Bourg

It’s very difficult to find a good Bordeaux Bio, this one it’s maybe not the best Bordeaux you can find but its Bio and Biodynamic and it’s good. With 80 % of Merlot the wine is quite flattering, a good expression of fruit on the nose (blackcurrant, ripe plum) and licorice. The palate is deep, intense spice and plum are mix and because is quite young tannins are a bit strong but give it 4 years and it’s gone a be a bomb with hint of cacao and leather.

Serious hills for Serious wines : Côte Rôtie and Condrieu

By a beautiful summer day I went on a trip in the north of Rhone Valley. And more specifically in Côte-Rôtie and is neighbor in white Condrieu.

It’s one of the most beautiful vineyards I’ve seen for the moment. The Rhône dig a deep valley a long time ago and now on his right bank you can found one of the most prestigious vineyard, characterized by the very steep hill. Those hills full of vine, remember me sometimes the Valais Vineyard in Switzerland but with a warmer climate.

Here you can see and feel that no machine can work on those vines. All agricultural work has to be done by hand. Does this give a better wine ? I don’t know but I’m sure it helps. Soil are less tamp down so vine roots can breathe better and much more care is give to the grape because of the hand work. Syrah and Viognier are resident from this area, both of them are present in the Côte Rôtie appellation and Viognier is the king of Condrieu.

That’s it for the tourist part. Now, let’s talk about the serious thing: The Wine !!

AOC Côte-Rôtie “Frucus Voluptas” 2007 Domaine Jamet
The color is deep purple like ink. On the nose, it’s an explosion of flavor: black fruit (bilberry and blackberry) with a hint of pepper maybe black and green pepper exactly. When you put that wine in your mouth, it fill your mouth with it intensity, still the fruity aromas but it’s deeper and last for long.

AOC Condrieu Côteaux du Vernon 2008 Domaine Georges Vernay
A very pale yellow dress. The nose is typical from the wine of Condrieu, limetree and honeysuckle fragrance white peach at the end. Then the palate is smooth, round and a big mineral taste is present. It gives freshness and balance to the wine. The final is very persistent.

The Top 10 Wine of summer 2010

I’m back now, I’m sorry for the long time without post but I was focus on another project and I had some holiday as well.
So summer is ending soon, we still have some good day coming in front of us but I think it’s time to do a little review of this past summer. What did you drink the much and what kind of wine did you enjoy.
For my part I will made a top ten of my personal drinks from this summer. Of course they’re summer drinks but I’m sure you can still enjoy those one during the autumn coming.

N°1 : Rosé Corail 2009 Château de Roquefort
AOC Côtes de Provence
I’m not so rosé but those kind of wine made the perfect match for a very hot summer. This one from a very nice property situated close to Marseille. Here the grapes is well treat, they work in organic farming. Rosé from Grenache with is typical aromas of fresh red fruit, it’s so refreshing that you keep asking for more.

N°2 : Beaulieu 2006 Château de La Selve
VDP Coteaux de l’Ardèche
This red wine from Ardèche is a cabernet base and some Bordeaux should take example on it. The winemaker shows us how to sublime this grape variety in picking ripe fruit and without new oak. The typical aromas of cabernet (blackcurrant) are rich and persistent. The pate is velvety and long, a perfect match for red meat on a barbecue

N°3: Triple Zero Jacky Blot
AOC Vouvray NV
Made with no added sugar from the beginning to the end. This nice sparkling wine is perfect for late aperitif on the terrace. Citrus aromas and honeysuckle comes from the nose. Then it’s an explosion of texture very smooth with small bubble. It can easily replace Champagne.

N°4 : Chardonnay Classic 2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées
AOC Beaujolais Blanc
How to make a new world chardonnay in the old world? Jean Paul Brun found the answer with is Beaujolais Blanc, its round with peach and pineapple flavor. To drink until the end of the night!!!

N°5 : Paul 2007 Domaine Saladin
AOC Côtes du Rhône
A nice cuvee made from an old parcel of Grenache, on the nose it’s an explosion red fruit jam, the palate is pleasant not to heavy but present. Nice with some grill chicken.

N°6 : Pineau des Charentes
From any producer, just because I come from the area where is made and for me it’s the perfect match for an after beach aperitif. A refreshing brewage without any pretention.

N°7 : Paradis Originels 2009 Terroirs Originels
AOC Beaujolais Villages
Made from Gamay à petit grains, hand harvesting and vinified with elegance. It’s a perfect match for summer salad and grilled vegetable. The nose is like a red fruit pot with some rose flowers aroma. The palate follow the rest, light elegant and a nice refreshing minerality at the end.

N°8 : Magalie Rosé 2009 Domaine Saint André de Figuière
AOC Cotes de Provence
It’s maybe the rosé I drink the much this summer, so it have to be in my Top 10. It’s a typical Provence rosé with this hint of vine peach and citrus. This wine is so easy to drink that it should prohibit. Another pearl from Provence.

N°9 : Champagne Comtes Hughes de la Bourdonnaye Carte Noire
A list somebody who care in champagne, he work well and the wine he made from a large amount of Pinot Meunier are without sulfite and no “dosage”. It does simply reflect a pure expression of champagne, tiny bubble and aromas of yeast. Then it last for long and live your palate refresh.

N°10 : Miss Vicky Wine Fleurie 2007
Just because she is a friend of mine and I taste her wine recently. And I was agreeably surprise. This wine is elegant and very well made, rose’s aromas and ripe red fruit, palate is smooth and last for long.

Le Château de la Selve, a pearl in Ardeche...

Few weeks ago, I had the chance to try some beautiful wine from the Château de La Selve. This wine estate situated in the heart of Ardeche grow vine with total respect for his beautiful surronding. Her the vines needs to be very resistant to the different temperature all around the year. And the soil most of the time of limestone give a typical minerality to the wines.

Let start with the rose wine L'audacieuse 2009 (Syrah/Grenache Base)
With a light salmon color this wine secret some sweet aromas of white peach and citrus, on the palate is velvety, fresh and long lasting. A perfect drink, for the coming summer.

Then the white Madame de 2009 (100% Viognier)
I'm a big fan of viognier and this one on the nose had typical aromas of lime tree and acacia. The palate is very fresh with a great vivacity for a viognier quite short but beautiful. A great wine that's shown all the potential of this area.

And the red :

Serre de Berty 2006 (60% Syrah, Merlot, Grenache/Cinsault)
A very shiny dark dress for this non-filtered wine. On the nose it's typical of a great syrah pepper aroma with a hint undergrowth and dry blood. The palate is rich complex on aromas of tabacco, leather and peppery.
It's a long gard wine that you can keep in your cellar for over 10 years.

Florence 2007 (60% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Cinsault and a hint of Viognier)
Beautiful purple color. Not to intense. Nose of black cherry and pepper. A hint of limestone. The palate is quite velvety, the black cherry notes still present, complex and long finish. A great Rhone Valley wine.

Champagne or not Champagne that is the question ?

In the number of restaurant that i worked for, every time a guest wanted sparkling wine they ask " Do you have some Champagne ? "

So, is Champagne synonymous of good quality sparkling wine ? or is it just a fashion thing ?

Of course American use the word champagne to name there sparkling wine (California Champagne for example)so Champagne has we know is very renow around the world. Do we make around the world sparkling wine of similar quality than champagne or even better ?

I found few exemple of good sparkling wine, sometimes the idea is clearly to do a wine like Champagne but sometimes it's clearly to make a wine in their own style.

Bisol Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Cartizze NV(Italy, Veneto)
This wine made from the white grape of the same name is a very aromatic and complex sparkling wine. The wine come from the best cru of prosecco, the hill of Cartizze. you found in this wine those typical aromas of exotic fruit, it's still light but in the same time you get much more flavour and weight than the classical prosecco. Simply superb.

L'O de L'Origan NV(Spain, Cava)
This wine produce in small quantity and nearly impossible to found outside Spain, but if you got the chance to test it don't hesitate. You will discover a very vinous sparkling wine, some of the wine are aged in oak and other in big volumes. Complexity is the word, aromas of licorice, vanilla, fresh butter in the mouth those very fine bubble are sweet not to acidic for a Nature (no dosage) and it's long in mouth. Such an amazing wine !!!

Nyetimber (West Sussex, England)
For this estate i didn't chose a particular cuvée or vintage, this little manor situated in the south of england make wine since 1992 always with a vintage. The quality are constant and they sometimes compared to the best champagne. For me it's one of the best champagne blend make outside France that's i ever tried. I don't know if it come from the climate or the nature of the soil similar to those of Champagne but for example in the classic cuvée 2003 you can find lemon and yeasty aromas typical (to Champagne) In the palate the chardonnay is dominant with agrum aromas and well balanced, nice acidity.

Raventos i Blanc (Spain, Cava)
For me is the best producer of Cava, all the range is made in a way of high quality. Try the reserva and gran reserva, there are the best example of what you can get when you want to make good cava. Tropical fruit and yeasty aromas are dominant but allways in a very elegant way. Superb balance and long palate.

That's it i know other wine but i don't want to make a big list. The ones i remenber much are those present here.

First Growth at the Château

I'm not a big fan of Bordeaux first growth (it's too expensive for what you get in the bottle) but when you got the opportunity to taste it at the châteaux it's always a great experience.

My trip to Bordeaux start few years ago and it's not finish yet :


- Château Lafite Rothschild
The estate here is amazing, a beautiful castle down in a little valley. The tour end in the famous round cellar where concert take place sometimes. Here the cellar master open for us a 1993 of course it's not a great vintage but it's not so bad really !!! My feeling about this wine is more about a moment or the atmosphere of the place than about the wine itself. But i remenber something great well balance and very long. The smell of blackcurant, smoked and a hint of something animals.
A great "souvenir"

- Château Mouton Rotschild
Yes another rotschild to follow. This Château looks more like a museum than a wine estate. It's like disney land for wine !!! After the boring visit and everything else, if you're lucky (or if you put the price when your not professional), you will try the wine for us it was a 2008 sample barrel (something not finish yet). I remenber the colour of this wine it was deep purple not filtered yet so very dark. The nose was amazing a mix of vanilla, cinamon and red fruit, then you put that liquid in your mouth and it's an explosion so young so rich so intense blackberry, mix of spice the tannins are heavy and the taste stay in your mouth for hour (lol). A wine for the future, great potential.


- Château Latour
First there is no Château here. Oh, sorry there is one but is hide by some tree but from the road you can see the tower that you see on the label. You need to park your car down in a little hole, like that nobody can see it from the road. It's like that in Bordeaux !!!
Like Mouton it's a bit disneyland but in a much more luxury way. After a little movie, start the visit and you can admire the very well decorated cellar (and very well equiped to). Then they put you in a very fashionable tasting room on the menu : Pauillac 2008 (3rd wine), Fort de Latour 2005 and 2008 (2nd wine), Château Latour 2004 and 2008 great progam ???
I will just give you the impression on the Latour 2004, the colour is quite opaque with tuile reflect on the nose tobacco, moka and leather are the dominant the palate is rich a very quick attack the tannins are big for sure it's a wine to forget in your cellar for a decade or two.

- Château Cheval Blanc
We change the side to go to the right bank of Bordeaux
This châteaux is quite particular in french we say in is "jus". It's not that Bling Bling like the left bank, it's looks like much more artisanal. The old concrete vats still there and nothing else. The tasting here was on a Petit Cheval and a Château Cheval Blanc 2008.
The Cheval Blanc was young (of course 2008 !!!!) a deep ruby colour, very pale the nose is spicy aroma of licorice and blackberries jam a bit of bell pepper aroma maybe ( cabernet franc is a big part of the blend) on the mouth you feel immediatly the ripe strawberry it's very fresh and well balance and the finish is long, long, long...

I didn't have the chance yet to go to Château Haut-Brion and Margaux but i will for sure. You can't visit Château Ausonne it's a to small structure (at list it's what they say on the phone) I already try all the first growth but not all of them at the property that's why i didn't put the comment there. Be patient they will come !!!

Italian but not macho

Yes, I love Italian Wine. I'm French but i fall in love few years ago with italian wine and i feel allright with that !! lol!!

When you speak about italian wine in France everybody laugh at you. For them Italian wine means the very bad bardolino you found in the pizza restaurant. And it's sad, you found so many diversity in italy, in the terroir, in the grape diversity and so many talent in some of the winemaker.

My favourite wine are Barolo and Barbaresco, those wine made hundred percent from Nebiolo are amazing. They are the kind of wine you can keep for decade, the grape variety make usually full bodied wine with great and silky tannins and high acidity that balance everything.

New Barolo tend to be drinkable younger but still this long ageing of four years in big oak barrel, this make a round wine sometime over extracted but allways a pleasure to drink.


The best producer for me (and the one i like the must) is G.D Vadjra who make the best Barolos i ever tried allways very well made not to much extraction with a great balance silky tannins and long in mouth. I recomand the "Bricco del Viole" it's heavy and sharp like a Medoc and sweet and silky like a Burgundy.
The other you should try Sandrone (Barolo), Giacosa (a great Barbaresco and you should try is white from Arneis amazing of freshness) and if your luky the wine from Gaja are an experience to live.

Hopes you will drink more italian wine, i talk today about this region but they're is so many other that are valuable.

Bordeaux or Burgundy ???

That's an eternal question ? And for my first (tasting) post that the question i'm asking. We all know in France exist a little war between those two region wich one have the best wine ? wich one have the best "terroirs" ? etc... an eternal dispute that never end. For me all wine region in the world needs to be know and you can find some surprising wine in area you didn't expect they made wine. But i will told you about that later !!!

So, for this first tasting post I choose to talk about a wine from each area.

Let start with the Bordeaux :
- it' an AOC Sainte Foy Bordeaux made by Mitjaville oenologue at Tertre Roteboeuf and Roc de Cambes its the Reserve de Famille 2006 from Château Martet.
This wine made from 100% Merlot and aged in 100% new oak barrel, is a very brillant wine a nice colour of old tawny with perfect rim. In the nose you feel the oak but it's not dominant flavour of red fruit, licorice and musk came to you. In blind tasting you will say it's a St Emilion Grand Cru for sure but it isn't. Then it's time to put this liquid to your mouth and now it's an explosion of flavour, you still find those aroma of black fruit, the truffle then came to you. The tannins are present but very silky. It's very well made, a monster of balance and long like a Cameron's movie. It will last aswell for decade.

Then the Burgundy :
- it's a Nuit St Georges 1er cru "Aux Perdrix" 2007 from the Domaine aux Perdrix
It's a quasi monopole (3,45 ha) only two row of vine are not vinified by the estate.
Time to taste it, it fill your glass with is purple reflect, very clear and limpid. On the nose you can feel a very ripe wine with aromas of fresh griottes and blueberry. The palate is great a full vivacity and very fresh with notes of tabacco and then under blue and raspberry. The tannins are present but not dominant just here to give to the wine a great balance and a intense longevity. A wine to enjoy now but for sure it will be better in few years.

That's it for today !!!

See you later for some new adventure

Just the beginning !!!

I had an idea long time ago : to start a wine blog. Of course you are going to say It's not very original, so many wine blog exist all ready !! What the difference between me and the other. You gone a see !! I will try to pass all my feelings the post tha you going to reed. I hope you gone a enjoy and write some comments Please !!!!