A Happy New Wine Year and that all you wishes come truth !!

What a best occasion than New Year evening to drink wine. In France tradition it’s to drink Champagne and pop up the cork at midnight exactly. But New Year is time to do some assessment and in particular about wine. I’ve tasted a mountain of wine this year, I don’t remember everything.

But the ones that still in my mind for sure they are good. And my biggest wish should be to drink it for this night.

New Year is the occasion to give award, you see on internet every blogger give award to other one but why not give award to the wine they taste. Some of them do and I’m glad of that. After all wine is the star of our work. It’s why we start writing, why we want to share idea or why we start a blog.

The award of the best pinot I tasted this year comes to a Vosne Romanée 2001 from Jean Pierre Mugneret. Not a very deep wine but just something simple well made not over price and very good. A typical pinot with cherry and leather taste.

The award of the best sparkling comes to Triple Zero of Jacky Blot, just because is a natural wine all fermentation and all taste come from the grapes. It’s pure with fine bubble.

The award of best Bordeaux is for a Cos d’Estournel 2007. I know it’s quite surprising because 2007 is renowned as a bad year. But from a good Château such as Cos it doesn’t matter. It’s just deep, intense, flavorful and well made as usual.

The Best White I tried this year and the award of best white comes to Domaine de Bongran Viré Clessé 2004. Just because this wine looks like a white Grand Cru from north burgundy, with is buttery and flowery flavor an example for all wine from Maconnais.

The award of the best sweet wine is for Château Guiraud 2002. 2010 for me was the occasion to taste Yquem and all the great from sauternes but my best souvenir comes from this Château not very famous but who’s doing a great job for sure. The wine is full of exotic fruit and marmalade but with a freshness that you don’t find easily in sauternes.

The award of the best foreign wine : I’m sorry but I always come back to my classic. It’s a Barolo Bricco delle Viole from G.D Vajra in 2006, it was quite young but with time I’m sure it will come a beast.

What are you going to drink for Christmas ?

A big question who needs a big answer. Christmas is always synonymous of big meal with all the family, is always a very good moment to share time with the people you like. Sometimes those kinds of meals can be boring and to long but I think if you have good wines at your side the time go faster.

It’s an exceptional occasion as well so it’s the perfect moment to take out of the cellar very good bottles of wines. And the better way to sublime your food is a perfect match wine.

I try to found some wine to match the food we use to eat for Christmas. Here are my results, it’s not perfect but sure that can give you some idea.

Oyster = Muscadet Amphibolite Nature 2009 Jo Landron

This muscadet for me is the purest expression of the appellation, with is light yellow color, is nose full of citrus and chalk aromas and iodized palate finish that match perfectly some oyster (from Marennes Oléron of course).

Caviar = Champagne Agrapart Minéral 2004 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

Of course I don’t eat very often caviar. But the few times I had the chance to try, I found that Champagne goes very well with caviar. For a noble product what can be better than a noble wine. Agrapart is a small producer making Champagne only from Chardonnay grape, this “cuvée” come from a special plot with a high density of chalk in the soil. It’s give to the wine a big minerality similar to the wine of Chablis. Very floral and buttery on the nose, it reveals on the palate an unique complexity.

Foie Gras = Domaine de Souch Jurançon Moelleux 2006 or an old Vintage of Cahors from Château du Cèdre

Foie Gras is a food specialty of South West of France and when you try wine from this area it looks like they are made to go with this dish. I choose a Jurançon, a sticky wine with aromas of Kumquat and candied orange. Those wine are usually lighter than Sauternes because they are balance by a high acidity level. If you don’t like sweet wine try a red from Cahors, Le Cèdre is maybe the best producer in the appellation when they are young wine can be austere and strong but with time they rounded and develop aromas of cacao and coffee.

Lobster and Seafood = Chablis 1er cru Bernard Defaix

I try this wine not long time ago and I was agreeably surprised. As usual in Chablis acidity is present but not dominant. The wine is profound, complex and I can imagine how well it goes with lobster or Dublin bay prawns.



White Poultry = Meursault (Village or 1er Cru) Pierre Morey

Poultry need creaminess and buttery flavor that only a Meursault can give you. Pierre Morey is one of the best producers in this village of Burgundy. The wines from from his own vine are in biodynamic culture and reflect perfectly the “terroir” of this famous burgundy appellation.

Red Meat = Old Vintage of Château La Tour de By (a 1996 for example) or Gevrey-Chambertin from J-L Trapet (Ostrea or Village)

What can be better for Christmas than a roast Beef filet, just serve on itself with some vegetable and cooking juice. Put on the side a bottle of this renown Châteaux of Medoc and you’re in heaven. Perfectly balanced with tannins rounded by times, La Tour de By can go well to with Lamb and Veal. For the Gevrey, it’s something different the meaty flavor of the wine sublimes the dish.


Dessert = Château de Fesles Bonnezeaux 2005 and with Chocolate a 10 or 20 years old Tawny (Fonseca or Niepoort) or Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel 2007 from Domaine du Trapadis

Sweet calls sweet. Château de Fesles consider as the Yquem of Loire is made 100% from Chenin with aromas of exotic fruit and marmalade. This wine will be a dessert on itself. If you have Chocolate to finish try something different like a sweet Rasteau from old wine of Grenache with jammy red fruit flavor and cacao finish. An old tawny can match it to.

Cheese = Vintage Port, a Kanonkop Pinotage or an Amarone della Valpolicella

Cheese is always difficult to pair with something. It’s strong, powerful and lactose doesn’t go well with wine. But if you choose a very strong wine like Pinotage from South Africa or the Amarone made from partially dried grape it can go well. Those wines high in tannins and very fruity can give a kick to your cheese board. If you don’t think so try the usual Vintage Port It’s always a success.

And to finish I wish you a Merry Christmas and a “Bon Appétit”

When Exception rhyme with Perfection…

Exception it’s something very concrete but what about perfection ? It’s something very abstract, after all perfection depends on your taste. After all the wine have been tasting, how can I describe perfection ? I think it’s something that should be simple, something not something overrated. It should be representative of the appellation without any make up or ads component.

Perfection is very difficult to found and as I say before depend on your taste. Perfection in wine is something rare but doesn’t mean to be expensive. Something rare is something exceptional. So do you have very often the occasion to taste something exceptional ? I don’t think so and me neither but wine tasting are made for that. And all the wine I will describe after are coming from that kind of tasting.

Arbois Vin Jaune 2003, Jacques Puffeney

What can be more exceptional than a Vin Jaune, everything is unique in this wine from the grape variety Savagnin a parent to Traminer, to the minimum age of 6 year in oak barrel and the film of yeast call “voile” that protect the wine from oxidation. Jacques Puffeney is one of the masters of that kind of wines and in good vintage like 2003 his wines can be like perfection. With the typical golden color of the “jaune” to the perfect nuts and spice fragrance this wine is a treasure. The nose is powerful and on the palate is an explosion of flavor balanced with the typical acidity of Vin Jaune.

Roussette de Savoie Marestel 2006, Domaine Dupasquier

This cru is one of the smallest of Savoie, not very famous or renowned but when you choose one of the best producers like Domaine Dupasquier you get an amazing wine. Exceptional because of the grape use Altesse, a one use only in Savoie to do Roussette de Savoie. This wine has a nice yellow straw color. The nose is difficult to describe because very unusual but it’s between honey and exotic fruit like mango or pineapple. On the mouth something like apricot or yellow peach reach your palate. The finish reveals a very nice acidity that equilibrates everything.

Mauzac Nature NV, Domaine Plageoles

This wine is the perfect example that something simple can be perfect. Made 100% from the grape Mauzac, this sparkling wine get his bubbles by a complete natural process. The sugar contains by the grape permit this exception in sparkling wine making. The result is a lightly bubble white wine with aromas of green apple and quince. The palate is delicate very well balance and light, a perfect wine for aperitif.

Alsace Pinot Noir “V” 2005, René Muré

This wine is an exception because is the only Pinot Noir plant in a Grand Cru (Vorbourg) area of Alsace. When is colleague prefer plant noble white varieties like Riesling, Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer, René Muré choose to plant the king of Burgundy. And his gamble was successful; this wine is far away from the typical light red pinot noir you use to meet in Alsace. Concentrated, dark, rich, powerful the wine seems coming from Burgundy and more specifically from Côte de Nuits. For me it’s far away the best red wine from Alsace and a perfect example that this region can produce good red to.

It's Beaujolais Day today !

Some say it's just marketing, other speak about fashion. I say it's just a very old tradition. Wine since it’s been invented was consumed young. Why ? Because wine before was very difficult to preserve and the consumption was higher than today so to have cheap wine you had to buy it just when it was release. (The principle of “primeur” in Bordeaux is based on the same rules). Everything changes with the progress in wine making but tradition is tradition. And the wines of Beaujolais are the one that need to be drunk very young.

Now Beaujolais Nouveau is a big event in France but also in the World, nearly the half of the production is sold outside France. This easy going wine with is strong flavor of fresh red fruit (some says Banana) was few years ago not so fashionable in is country. Lot of producers at this time was doing very bad product with artificial yeast and lot of sulfite. This was enough to give a bad reputation to Beaujolais Nouveau.

Since few years appear a new way of making those kinds of wines. With the organic, biodynamic or even natural movement growing in the Wine Industry, numerous producers make significant progress in making new wine of good quality.

The two Beaujolais Nouveau I choose are from the Domaine Joubert, both are made “à l’ancienne” it’s mean with indigenous yeast and no sulfites.

AOC Beaujolais-Village Nouveau 2010
With is pale purple dress, this wine release on the nose aromas of fruit cake and strawberry jelly, a hint of old roses to. The palate is clean and fresh, is directly driven by flamed bananas. It’s short but perfect for aperitif.




Foudre N°3 AOC Beaujolais-Village Nouveau 2010
This wine spend fifteen day in foudre (a kind of big barrel). The color is not deeper than the one before. The nose is very discrete with aromas of cherry and plum much more elegant. On the mouth, the wine is deeper in structure much more like a “cru” of Beaujolais. Aromas of red fruit fill your palate and a kind of smooth tannin gives you a kick at the end.

Wines shouldn’t be cheap !

It’s true our buying power is not the same as before. We are crossing a big credit crunch period. Millions of people don’t have job and the money that go with it. We going to work two years more without security to get a retreat pension (just for French reader). But it is a reason to destroy wine culture (in France).

Every day in my job, I’m confront to people who ask for wine under five Euros but do you know how much It cost to produce a bottle of wine. Wine it’s not Coca-Cola, it’s not an artificial product made with artificial component that can be produce in astronomical quantity. Wine is a result of one year of labor, is the result of a complex process very difficult to master.

For France, I think wine still one of the only agricultural product make in an artisanal way. It’s one of the only product actually on the market made hundred percent (or nearly) in France by French people. Think about what you’re wearing, eating or even driving. Are they made in France in an artisanal way ? I’m not sure.

Don’t forget inflation and crisis is touching wine producers to. There is different way to protect this French cultural heritage : stop buying bulk (cheap) wine in the supermarket, look at the label and the capsules for the “recoltant” mention (preferred to “negociant”), buy wine at list at ten or more Euros. Wine have cost but bottle, label, corked, capsules have one to. And you can be sure that when you buy a wine under five Euros (in a wine shop) those costs are not cover (don’t forget transport cost and seller margin).

Don’t deform my speech, I’m not fighting for wine to become a Luxury product but wines don’t have to be cheap if you want a product of good quality and with integrity. Some are approving this with excess (I’m thinking about Bordeaux First Growth) but they are the worst example you can see. There is an abyss between ten Euros and the exorbitant price of a Bordeaux First Growth. Just put a bit more money in your basic daily wine and you will found more pleasure (drinking it) and make people happier.

PS : You can also add an environmental touch to your buying act preferring organic or biodynamic wine.

Who said Americans don't know how to make wine ?

I was very suspicious about American wine before I tried some very good one. The one I found in France was too sweet with high alcohol content. They were most of the time over extract and without any subtlety. When you think a bit about, it’s quite normal wine over there is not controlled like in Europe. The rules and regulation appear only in the 1980 with the AVAs (American Viticultural Area). And California, the biggest wine producer state of the country began to recognize AVA only in the late 80's. Before those rules it was a total anarchy with wine labeled as American but without any grapes coming from USA. Now the best “terroirs” are recognized and grape varieties are planted in relation to the soil and climate. And since the 80s, lots of wine producer are making wine following old world method (use of French oak, not over extraction, less alcohol, pigeage, racking…).

You may say this is the result of globalization, that we make wine with the same taste in every country. No, maybe I’ve got too much faith but for me French, Italian, Spanish or American wines have their own typicality. We make progress in winemaking but the uniformity of taste is far away from us as long as independent producers continue to produce wines of quality in their own way (and with faith to). Of course you found more and more wine made in an industrial way (most of them sell in the supermarket) with constant quality and constant flavor (and price far lower than the wine you found in independent wine shop). But it is really what you want ? I think America start to understand that now and it’s why some wines are outstanding over there.

One Point Five Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Shafer Vineyards
North Coast, Napa Valley Stags Leap District
One of the best producers from Napa with is plot selection “cuvée” coming from Stags Leap District the smallest appellations in the US. The wine is deep, intense in color with black reflect. The nose is full of black fruit aromas mainly blackberry then spices are coming to finish with tobacco and cacao notes. The palate is direct with aromas of black fruit coming and a kind of smoky flavor. The tannins are supple and the finish very long.

Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Heitz Wine Cellars
North Coast, Napa Valley Oakville
Because this wine is a myth, this pure Cab from Napa is a classic. Classic it is the color is not to deep but not to pale to just like a modern Claret. The typical minty aromas jump to your nose rounded by ripe berries. In the mouth, this wine seems perfect round, intense, subtle, well balance with those aromas of black fruit and chocolate. The final is so long to.

Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel 2006, Ravenswood
North Coast, Sonoma County
For me Ravenswood made the best US Zinfandel, always perfectly ripe not to deep not to light. Here Zinf is well treated. With a nice purple color and bright reflect, this wine release jammy red fruit and cinnamon flavor. The palate develop touches of spice and vanilla, it’s balanced and well structured never heavy. And it lives an amazing long finish with hint of berries.
The cheapest version the Vintner Blend is also very good.

Le Cigare Volant 2004, Bonny Doon Vineyard
Central Coast, Santa Cruz Mountains
From the pioneer to plant Rhone Varieties in California, this red with a funny label reflect the diversity of American wine. Quite light in color with rubies and orange reflect, the wine on the nose is typically syrah with pepper and earthy fragrance. Medium bodied and fruit driven in the palate, it reveals is capacity to be easy drink in any occasion.


Columbia Valley Semillon 2007, L’Ecole N°41
Washington State, Columbia Valley
Washington State is the second biggest wine producer state after California. The climate there is cooler and permits to grow grape varieties such as Riesling or pinot noir. But I choose a non famous grape varieties : Semillon, this grape is originated from Bordeaux where it made great sweet wine such as Sauternes and Barsac. L’Ecole 41 makes a very aromatic dry white from this grape. The color is a rich pale gold, the nose present multiple floral aromas and a hint of citrus. The creamy textured of the wine fill your palate then exotic fruit appear to finish with a fresh and delicate touch.

Marsanne Santa Ynez Valley 2008, Qupé
Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Another grape not very well knows, Marsanne is from Rhône Valley where it excels in the white Hermitage appellation. In California it found a place where it can be ripe with balance. The wines from Qupé are a perfect example how this grape can produce good quality wine. The wine have a pale straw color with green reflect, the nose reveal subtle flavor of pears and orange. The palate is from a same consistency with a crispy finish.

Sweet is beautiful !!

Sweet wine is not fashionable anymore. At the time of Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855, that kind of wine was very appreciate. Château Yquem the most famous of sticky wine was the only one classified as Superior First Growth (Premier Cru Supérieur) and was selling better than the red from Medoc. Before that the famous Hungarian Tokaji was very well renowned in every royal court of Europe. Louis XV offering a glass to Madame de Pompadour, said “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” (Wine of Kings, King of Wines). Sweet was considered for long time the best of the best and in every country, every area you can found a sweet version of wine. The English was fervent admirator of that kind of wine; did they not invent Port, Marsala or Madeira ?


The people making those wines are facing a big problem actually, the diminution of the consumption. Those wine are considered too heavy, in taste, in alcohol and we don’t found anymore the right consumption moment for that kind of wines. I think there is many way of consuming those wines, forget the “idées reçus” and be imaginative. Those wine are not good only on a Foie Gras; they can be a perfect match for cheese, seafood or aperitif. And don’t forget compare to Bordeaux red’s, Sauternes are still affordable !

My selection :

Jurançon 2008, Lionel Osmin & Cie
AOC Jurançon
Very pale golden color for this wine. The nose is quite closed but aromas of white flower and bitter orange emanate from it. In mouth is something smooth and light, a perfect balance between sweetness and acidity. Aromas of litchi and passion fruit fill up your palate. It’s end with a touch of orange and a fresh finish.

Château Rabaud Promis 2003
Premier Grand Cru Classé
AOC Sauternes
It’s one of the best Sauternes I tried the last few years. I tasted this wine 3 or 4 times and I always enjoyed it. The color is very intense gold. The nose is flavorful : pineapple, apricot, roasted apple, cinnamon and vanilla. Then in the palate it’s still very pleasant, very well balanced not heavy as Sauternes usually can be.

Le Muté sur Grains 2006, Domaine de La Rectorie
AOC Banyuls
A French specificity, fortified red wine from far south of France. The typical examples are Banyuls and Maury, both made from very old Grenache vine. Domaine de La Rectorie is one of the best producers and this entry level wine shows us the potential. The color is deep black purple. On the nose you can smell figs, moka, cacao, licorice and walnuts. The wine is full body with intense tannins and sweetness. Final is persistent and intense.

Forster Jesuigarten Riesling Spätlese 2009, Reichsrat Von Buhl
QBA Pfalz
For me sweet Rieslings from Germany are the best dessert wine. They are always flavorful, sweet and a big balancing acidity. This one, follow the rules, with flavor of melon, peaches and vanilla. The mouth is same with a honeyed touch. The big acidity balances the lot of residual sugar to make a wine fresh and elegant. The final is mineral and long lasting.